Skip to main content

Construction Process VIII (Final part)

 Stitching the parts together This is the final part of the construction process series.  This is where all the parts are stitched together.  The lower leather part with the upper parts.  The vamp and the back leather part. For this task start by threading the needle.  This needle is a different kind.  They are called Osborne Braiding Needles at DICTUM ( https://www.dictum.com/en/sewing-tools-materials-bbc/osborne-braiding-needles-708419 ) and threading them is easier than using the saddle-maker's needles.  They hold two "teeth" that I suppose they hold the thread in there.  I am not sure if I did it right but for the whole project it did hold the thread pretty nicely without disengaging the thread at any time. I first passed the thread in the V shape lamina passing both teeth and then the short part of the thread again in the V shape lamina passing only the first tooth and that's it.  This needle does not hold a sharp/pointy edge and is perfect for this stitching pur
Post a Comment

Custom Leather Stamp

 Custom Leather Stamp

Imprinting my logo onto the leather was a separate project to be done.  I have used a 20mm diameter steel rod to do so.  Mild steel.
One has to choose from the beginning if this stamp is to be used imprinting using a hammer or a press.  This will determine the length of the steel rod.  I have chosen to use it with a hammer given the space and tools I have at home.  Doing so the length of the rod is about 80mm which makes it quite voluminous having a large mass and thus inertia.  Has to be used with a medium sized hammer.  Small hammers will bounce back at this rod mass so keep that in mind.



A Dremel 300 tool was used with variant rotary tools for engraving the cat’s paw. From stone tools to metal ones (which were almost destroyed in the process. I did not hold any tungsten tools. Generally the process is only to bring in contact the rotary tool at high speeds and make the contact with the metal rod only brief and firm. Thus no high temperatures occur. This prolongs the life of the rotary tool.
It is also better to anneal the steel rod before the process and harden it later on if needed (for leather work there is no need to re harden the rod but still). Annihilation process will make the steel rod softer and even prolong further the life of your tools. Though the heating process of the steel rod only on the side where the stamp is to be made requires quite a lot of gas or coal (better) and in my opinion for such a small project is not important.



And just a small video testing this tool stamp.



Labels:

Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Construction Process VIII (Final part)

 Stitching the parts together This is the final part of the construction process series.  This is where all the parts are stitched together.  The lower leather part with the upper parts.  The vamp and the back leather part. For this task start by threading the needle.  This needle is a different kind.  They are called Osborne Braiding Needles at DICTUM ( https://www.dictum.com/en/sewing-tools-materials-bbc/osborne-braiding-needles-708419 ) and threading them is easier than using the saddle-maker's needles.  They hold two "teeth" that I suppose they hold the thread in there.  I am not sure if I did it right but for the whole project it did hold the thread pretty nicely without disengaging the thread at any time. I first passed the thread in the V shape lamina passing both teeth and then the short part of the thread again in the V shape lamina passing only the first tooth and that's it.  This needle does not hold a sharp/pointy edge and is perfect for this stitching pur
Post a Comment
Read more

Construction Process V

 Preparing the Rubber Sole As mentioned on my previous post, there has been a mistake in the construction process.  Be aware of that.  The piercing of the lower leather part should have already taken part just after the bonding of the reindeer leather with the sheep lining leather.  Thus using the lower part blueprint with the holes already designed and pierced the lower leather part should have been marked and pierced. At this point there is no going back and this job will be done after the rubber sole has been glued on the crepe sole. Preparing the rubber sole involves scratching its surface with 60grade sandpaper.  Not much.  It is already prepared for gluing by having grooves by design.  I use the sandpaper perpendicular to those already designed grooves. The crepe sole has already been prepared i.e. sanded so there is no need by now to do the same thing.  By the time there are vulnerable stitches on the crepe sole you should not touch any more this surface.  Use only a brush to cl
Post a Comment
Read more

Construction Process III

  The Inner Leather Sole As the lining of the shoe is made from sheep skin leather I decided to use an inner sole from the same leather that the outer shoe is made.  Deerskin.  More specifically Reindeer skin leather.  This will make the area where I step onto the shoe more durable and will last more I suppose. Making and cutting the inner reindeer leather is done with the same technique as the rest of the leather is done.  Using chalk for marking and the roller cutter for cutting the leather. And bellow fitted on the lower leather part (lining side) as if will be glued and later stitched together with the crepe sole. Ken Diamond here makes three rows of stitches.  Stitches that will last long hold the inner leather sole with the lower part and the crepe sole.  Though he does not use an outer rubber sole for protecting those stitches in some of his shoe designs so I suppose this technique is a must. Stitching as we will see later on those parts together  is the most difficult part as f
Post a Comment
Read more