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Construction Process VIII (Final part)

 Stitching the parts together This is the final part of the construction process series.  This is where all the parts are stitched together.  The lower leather part with the upper parts.  The vamp and the back leather part. For this task start by threading the needle.  This needle is a different kind.  They are called Osborne Braiding Needles at DICTUM ( https://www.dictum.com/en/sewing-tools-materials-bbc/osborne-braiding-needles-708419 ) and threading them is easier than using the saddle-maker's needles.  They hold two "teeth" that I suppose they hold the thread in there.  I am not sure if I did it right but for the whole project it did hold the thread pretty nicely without disengaging the thread at any time. I first passed the thread in the V shape lamina passing both teeth and then the short part of the thread again in the V shape lamina passing only the first tooth and that's it.  This needle does not hold a sharp/pointy edge and is perf...
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About

Deerskin Moccasins by markman8

Handcrafted moccasins from deerskin/Reindeer leather, no machines used whatsoever.  All hand-stitched.  Crepe sole is used in combination with rubber sole.
This is a North Native Indian American's Footwear design based also on Ken Diamonds moccasins.  Please refer to the CRAFT MANUAL of North American Indian Footwear book for more information.
This Blog is about making those shoes describing most of the process and tools used.  Some videos will also be provided on the way to create them.

This is a kind of tutorial based on my experience on shoe making and information from the book described and the internet.  References found round the web will be linked in this blog site to keep track of all the information as we go along. 
Most of the tools are bought from DICTUM.com Germany.  Leathers are also bought from DICTUM.com. 

Kangaroo leather is the best for this project and I will try as soon as I can another version with Kangaroo leather for my moccasins.

Share your thoughts and personal experience with me in this Blog so I can gain experience and apply it on my projects as you can as well through this site.

I respect those people that lived as natives in the North American fields and valleys.  I hope that they manage some day to come again alive as a civilisation not based on whatever funds for doing so but solely on their love for nature and respect to the environment.

Deerskin moccasins markman8 logo


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Construction Process VIII (Final part)

 Stitching the parts together This is the final part of the construction process series.  This is where all the parts are stitched together.  The lower leather part with the upper parts.  The vamp and the back leather part. For this task start by threading the needle.  This needle is a different kind.  They are called Osborne Braiding Needles at DICTUM ( https://www.dictum.com/en/sewing-tools-materials-bbc/osborne-braiding-needles-708419 ) and threading them is easier than using the saddle-maker's needles.  They hold two "teeth" that I suppose they hold the thread in there.  I am not sure if I did it right but for the whole project it did hold the thread pretty nicely without disengaging the thread at any time. I first passed the thread in the V shape lamina passing both teeth and then the short part of the thread again in the V shape lamina passing only the first tooth and that's it.  This needle does not hold a sharp/pointy edge and is perf...
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Construction Process V

 Preparing the Rubber Sole As mentioned on my previous post, there has been a mistake in the construction process.  Be aware of that.  The piercing of the lower leather part should have already taken part just after the bonding of the reindeer leather with the sheep lining leather.  Thus using the lower part blueprint with the holes already designed and pierced the lower leather part should have been marked and pierced. At this point there is no going back and this job will be done after the rubber sole has been glued on the crepe sole. Preparing the rubber sole involves scratching its surface with 60grade sandpaper.  Not much.  It is already prepared for gluing by having grooves by design.  I use the sandpaper perpendicular to those already designed grooves. The crepe sole has already been prepared i.e. sanded so there is no need by now to do the same thing.  By the time there are vulnerable stitches on the crepe sole you should not touch any mor...
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Construction Process

The Sole The sole consists of two separate parts.  The crepe sole which is attached to the lower leather part of the shoe and the rubber sole which will be glued underneath the crepe sole and which supposed to be interchangeable when worn out.  The rubber sole comes to protect the stitches done between the crepe sole and the lower leather part of the shoe. Ken Diamond here does more than one line of stitches.  I chose not to do so.  Ken does not use rubber sole at all in his version.  I chose not to do so not only for the reason of the extra rubber sole but because stitches are done by hand and stitching the crepe sole with the lower leather part is quite difficult.  It is the most difficult part of the whole project indeed.  I suppose that Ken has the luxury of using sewing machines which I do not. Use the blueprint of your foot outline.  Sole is the one that will determine the whole look of the shoe.  If you choose to follow it exactly then...
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