Construction Process VIII (Final part)

Stitching the parts together

This is the final part of the construction process series. This is where all the parts are stitched together. The lower leather part with the upper parts. The vamp and the back leather part.

For this task start by threading the needle. This needle is a different kind. They are called Osborne Braiding Needles at DICTUM (https://www.dictum.com/en/sewing-tools-materials-bbc/osborne-braiding-needles-708419) and threading them is easier than using the saddle-maker's needles. They hold two "teeth" that I suppose they hold the thread in there. I am not sure if I did it right but for the whole project it did hold the thread pretty nicely without disengaging the thread at any time.

I first passed the thread in the V shape lamina passing both teeth and then the short part of the thread again in the V shape lamina passing only the first tooth and that's it. This needle does not hold a sharp/pointy edge and is perfect for this stitching purpose. The leather has already been pierced so there is no need for pointy edges on the needles. Do wax the linen thread here too.

I start from the vamp. I watched Ken doing that on the few videos he has online doing his job on moccasins.

Ken Diamond leaves three holes when he starts stitching on the vamp. I did the same. You can see it from the video. I leave thee holes on the vamp and start af the fourth one. On the lower leather part you also have to compensate for that too.

The back leather part will overlap those 2-3 holes left on each side so you should have had those holes designed/counted and pierced correctly on the back part too.

The reason that I left those three holes free from start is that the back leather part will overlap with the vamp so stitches will be done on both of them. For me it was important to use a long thread so to do it in one go. It does take more effort though.

From the first stitch I use a small brush (the back of it) to push some leather back and to fix a small wave of leather. This is essential for the leather to be stitched smoothly. Specially at tight curves such as the front element of the shoe and the back part of it later on.

Stitching the vamp with the lower leather part

Do fix quite well each pass of stitches. You can only affect two back stitches from the current one so if you have them too lose you have to undo your stitches to go back and tight them up.

The difficult part comes on tight curves where the waves of leather have to be more prominent. The rest of the stitching is quite a pleasing process. Ken does make his shoes look like they are pulled upwards. And this is a beautiful design! It needs the vamp to be smaller in size than the lower part so for the pulling to occur at the end. Stitching like that though is much more difficult. The result will be a better fit. This design of mine came to be too lose so my next one will be tested more and better designed.

Back part and rest of shoe stitched together

When you start adding the back part the shoe starts also taking its final shape. At this point I do add some back stitches to support the point where the three parts come together. Some backwards and some forwards I add some parallel stitches to the shoe for even better support.

Continuing to the back part of the shoe normally with the same kind of stitches done in the front part too.

When the end of the stitching is reached I repeat the process of some forward and some backward stitches at the point where the three parts of the shoe meet together as before. Entangle the thread and cut it.

And that's it!

You have an almost complete pair of shoes almost ready to be worn for the first time!