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Construction Process VIII (Final part)

 Stitching the parts together This is the final part of the construction process series.  This is where all the parts are stitched together.  The lower leather part with the upper parts.  The vamp and the back leather part. For this task start by threading the needle.  This needle is a different kind.  They are called Osborne Braiding Needles at DICTUM ( https://www.dictum.com/en/sewing-tools-materials-bbc/osborne-braiding-needles-708419 ) and threading them is easier than using the saddle-maker's needles.  They hold two "teeth" that I suppose they hold the thread in there.  I am not sure if I did it right but for the whole project it did hold the thread pretty nicely without disengaging the thread at any time. I first passed the thread in the V shape lamina passing both teeth and then the short part of the thread again in the V shape lamina passing only the first tooth and that's it.  This needle does not hold a sharp/pointy edge and is perf...
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Construction Process VIII (Final part)

 Stitching the parts together This is the final part of the construction process series.  This is where all the parts are stitched together.  The lower leather part with the upper parts.  The vamp and the back leather part. For this task start by threading the needle.  This needle is a different kind.  They are called Osborne Braiding Needles at DICTUM ( https://www.dictum.com/en/sewing-tools-materials-bbc/osborne-braiding-needles-708419 ) and threading them is easier than using the saddle-maker's needles.  They hold two "teeth" that I suppose they hold the thread in there.  I am not sure if I did it right but for the whole project it did hold the thread pretty nicely without disengaging the thread at any time. I first passed the thread in the V shape lamina passing both teeth and then the short part of the thread again in the V shape lamina passing only the first tooth and that's it.  This needle does not hold a sharp/pointy edge and is perf...
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The Tools

 Tools used I have used simple tools for constructing my moccasins.   From left to right: Wax for waxing the stitching thread.  This is not the ideal as it is hard wax.  A proper one contains fat from animals in combination to bee's wax.  I already ordered a proper wax from DICTUM.com Eyelets 5.6mm in diameter 7.1mm in length.  I might need to order shorter ones though... Waxed thread Rotring trio-pen with three different in diameter graphite noses Stitching needle/s for stitching already prepared leather (opened holes) Rotary leather hole opener (from 2mm up to and including 4.5mm) Dividers and calipers Stitching needles Thread scissors Leather pricking/marking rotary tool with interchangeable wheels Johnas Kallioniemi Puucko custom knife Cutting blade Awl Rotary cutting blade Brushes for cement glue application Copper wire brush for leather roughening Using each tool in the same sequence described above: Wax the threads before stitching.  It str...
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Construction Process IV

 Preparing the lower shoe part After the inner leather sole has dried out from gluing you can move on to the next step which is marking first and then stitching the whole lower leather part with the crepe sole. As mentioned in previous posts this is a difficult part and requires lot of patience and finger ... endurance. The tools you will need for this job are: Dividers Prinking/Marking tool Awl Stitching Pony Saddler's needles Linen Thread (or nylon if you prefer) Thread's wax A pair of thread's scissors On the prinking/Marking tool choose accordingly the wheel.  I have chosen from the 4 wheels provided the one that marks the most apart.  Sparse stitches for me are the best here for two reasons.  One and the main reason is to finish and feel your fingers at the end comfortably and second because there is no need to have dense stitches on a crepe sole. First use the dividers to a logical but not very wide spaced apart opening so to mark round the leather inner sole w...
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