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Construction Process VIII (Final part)

 Stitching the parts together This is the final part of the construction process series.  This is where all the parts are stitched together.  The lower leather part with the upper parts.  The vamp and the back leather part. For this task start by threading the needle.  This needle is a different kind.  They are called Osborne Braiding Needles at DICTUM ( https://www.dictum.com/en/sewing-tools-materials-bbc/osborne-braiding-needles-708419 ) and threading them is easier than using the saddle-maker's needles.  They hold two "teeth" that I suppose they hold the thread in there.  I am not sure if I did it right but for the whole project it did hold the thread pretty nicely without disengaging the thread at any time. I first passed the thread in the V shape lamina passing both teeth and then the short part of the thread again in the V shape lamina passing only the first tooth and that's it.  This needle does not hold a sharp/pointy edge and is perf...
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Construction Process VIII (Final part)

 Stitching the parts together This is the final part of the construction process series.  This is where all the parts are stitched together.  The lower leather part with the upper parts.  The vamp and the back leather part. For this task start by threading the needle.  This needle is a different kind.  They are called Osborne Braiding Needles at DICTUM ( https://www.dictum.com/en/sewing-tools-materials-bbc/osborne-braiding-needles-708419 ) and threading them is easier than using the saddle-maker's needles.  They hold two "teeth" that I suppose they hold the thread in there.  I am not sure if I did it right but for the whole project it did hold the thread pretty nicely without disengaging the thread at any time. I first passed the thread in the V shape lamina passing both teeth and then the short part of the thread again in the V shape lamina passing only the first tooth and that's it.  This needle does not hold a sharp/pointy edge and is perf...
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Initial design and testing

  There is no need to spend your expensive leather for testing designs each and every time.  Use some fake leather or otherwise.  It is much cheaper from original leather and does pretty nicely the job. On the next picture one can see from left to right, first the paper used for all the blueprints.  In the middle the fake leather used to test and construct the first testing shoe, and on the right a roll of industrial floor cover used to make a more permanent type of blueprints (just copied the paper ones to those plastic ones form this roll) Tests will be frequent and wasting lots of paper for start and fake leather material is a fact.  I thought myself that by just having this experience of my previous construction of moccasins that this one would be a straightforward case.  Which was not.  I guess that is for every project done from now on, on moccasins and true enough for every different foot trace.  Thus if someone asks me what to do with thos...
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The Tools

 Tools used I have used simple tools for constructing my moccasins.   From left to right: Wax for waxing the stitching thread.  This is not the ideal as it is hard wax.  A proper one contains fat from animals in combination to bee's wax.  I already ordered a proper wax from DICTUM.com Eyelets 5.6mm in diameter 7.1mm in length.  I might need to order shorter ones though... Waxed thread Rotring trio-pen with three different in diameter graphite noses Stitching needle/s for stitching already prepared leather (opened holes) Rotary leather hole opener (from 2mm up to and including 4.5mm) Dividers and calipers Stitching needles Thread scissors Leather pricking/marking rotary tool with interchangeable wheels Johnas Kallioniemi Puucko custom knife Cutting blade Awl Rotary cutting blade Brushes for cement glue application Copper wire brush for leather roughening Using each tool in the same sequence described above: Wax the threads before stitching.  It str...
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