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Construction Process VIII (Final part)

 Stitching the parts together This is the final part of the construction process series.  This is where all the parts are stitched together.  The lower leather part with the upper parts.  The vamp and the back leather part. For this task start by threading the needle.  This needle is a different kind.  They are called Osborne Braiding Needles at DICTUM ( https://www.dictum.com/en/sewing-tools-materials-bbc/osborne-braiding-needles-708419 ) and threading them is easier than using the saddle-maker's needles.  They hold two "teeth" that I suppose they hold the thread in there.  I am not sure if I did it right but for the whole project it did hold the thread pretty nicely without disengaging the thread at any time. I first passed the thread in the V shape lamina passing both teeth and then the short part of the thread again in the V shape lamina passing only the first tooth and that's it.  This needle does not hold a sharp/pointy edge and is perf...
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Construction Process VIII (Final part)

 Stitching the parts together This is the final part of the construction process series.  This is where all the parts are stitched together.  The lower leather part with the upper parts.  The vamp and the back leather part. For this task start by threading the needle.  This needle is a different kind.  They are called Osborne Braiding Needles at DICTUM ( https://www.dictum.com/en/sewing-tools-materials-bbc/osborne-braiding-needles-708419 ) and threading them is easier than using the saddle-maker's needles.  They hold two "teeth" that I suppose they hold the thread in there.  I am not sure if I did it right but for the whole project it did hold the thread pretty nicely without disengaging the thread at any time. I first passed the thread in the V shape lamina passing both teeth and then the short part of the thread again in the V shape lamina passing only the first tooth and that's it.  This needle does not hold a sharp/pointy edge and is perf...
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Initial design and testing

  There is no need to spend your expensive leather for testing designs each and every time.  Use some fake leather or otherwise.  It is much cheaper from original leather and does pretty nicely the job. On the next picture one can see from left to right, first the paper used for all the blueprints.  In the middle the fake leather used to test and construct the first testing shoe, and on the right a roll of industrial floor cover used to make a more permanent type of blueprints (just copied the paper ones to those plastic ones form this roll) Tests will be frequent and wasting lots of paper for start and fake leather material is a fact.  I thought myself that by just having this experience of my previous construction of moccasins that this one would be a straightforward case.  Which was not.  I guess that is for every project done from now on, on moccasins and true enough for every different foot trace.  Thus if someone asks me what to do with thos...
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Construction Process IV

 Preparing the lower shoe part After the inner leather sole has dried out from gluing you can move on to the next step which is marking first and then stitching the whole lower leather part with the crepe sole. As mentioned in previous posts this is a difficult part and requires lot of patience and finger ... endurance. The tools you will need for this job are: Dividers Prinking/Marking tool Awl Stitching Pony Saddler's needles Linen Thread (or nylon if you prefer) Thread's wax A pair of thread's scissors On the prinking/Marking tool choose accordingly the wheel.  I have chosen from the 4 wheels provided the one that marks the most apart.  Sparse stitches for me are the best here for two reasons.  One and the main reason is to finish and feel your fingers at the end comfortably and second because there is no need to have dense stitches on a crepe sole. First use the dividers to a logical but not very wide spaced apart opening so to mark round the leather inner sole w...
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