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Construction Process VIII (Final part)

 Stitching the parts together This is the final part of the construction process series.  This is where all the parts are stitched together.  The lower leather part with the upper parts.  The vamp and the back leather part. For this task start by threading the needle.  This needle is a different kind.  They are called Osborne Braiding Needles at DICTUM ( https://www.dictum.com/en/sewing-tools-materials-bbc/osborne-braiding-needles-708419 ) and threading them is easier than using the saddle-maker's needles.  They hold two "teeth" that I suppose they hold the thread in there.  I am not sure if I did it right but for the whole project it did hold the thread pretty nicely without disengaging the thread at any time. I first passed the thread in the V shape lamina passing both teeth and then the short part of the thread again in the V shape lamina passing only the first tooth and that's it.  This needle does not hold a sharp/pointy edge and is perf...
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Construction Process II

 The lower part of the shoe

Consists of the outer leather which is deer in this case and the lining which is sheep leather.  The blueprint used is a freely drawn sketch initially round the sole designed in the previous step.  Again it mostly differs from Ken's design to the arch part of the foot.  I do not use the western design but more of the native American's Indian design.

Lower shoe part blueprint


Use the rotary cutting tool here and for more precision the simple blade cutter.

Outline the design from the blueprint using a piece of chalk.  Do not use here a pen.  There are some non permanent markers but I would not try them on the deer skin.

Lower shoe leather outline

Using the rotary cutter tool or otherwise follow the inside part of the outline while cutting the leather.  Be gentle with your progress and take your time.

Cutting the lower leather part

Repeat the same process for the lining.  Do not forget that lining must be drawn with a wider border and not exact on the blueprint as the main leather.  Leave about 2cm of space round your lower part blueprint of the shoe.  Cut using the rotary tool.

Lower shoe lining cut

Fit the two parts together to test their fit.  Use a non permanent marker to outline the main leather on the lining.  This will give you a rough idea where to apply the glue cement later on.

Lining and main leather fitted together

Marking the main lower part on the lining


Prepare the inner surface of both leathers using a copper wire brush or so.  Be gentle here.  You only need to roughen the surface and make possible for the glue cement to penetrate through the fibres.

Preparing the lower surfaces for gluing

Apply the glue cement with a brush.  I tent to apply first on the deer skin (main leather) and then on the lining.  More precision is needed on the main leather than on the lining.  Doing so in that order leaves the deer skin to dry less time than otherwise and you have a better bond.  I also tent to leave no more than 5min both surfaces exposed before bonding them together.

Applying glue cement of lower leather surfaces

Have ready a rolling pin to press onto the bonded leathers.  Apply quite a pressure yet not too much.

Rolling pin onto bonded lower leather surfaces

Heave ready a weight to apply on the bonded together leathers and leave there for more than an hour.  I tent to after 2h of passed time to test the bond and let the joined leathers breath a bit before putting them back to the light press (weight in my case is about 8kg).

Weight on the cemented leathers

After the cement has cured you can use the rotary cutter tool and very carefully cut the excess lining leather.

Excess lining leather cut


Finally here are some videos showing the above process:












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Construction Process VIII (Final part)

 Stitching the parts together This is the final part of the construction process series.  This is where all the parts are stitched together.  The lower leather part with the upper parts.  The vamp and the back leather part. For this task start by threading the needle.  This needle is a different kind.  They are called Osborne Braiding Needles at DICTUM ( https://www.dictum.com/en/sewing-tools-materials-bbc/osborne-braiding-needles-708419 ) and threading them is easier than using the saddle-maker's needles.  They hold two "teeth" that I suppose they hold the thread in there.  I am not sure if I did it right but for the whole project it did hold the thread pretty nicely without disengaging the thread at any time. I first passed the thread in the V shape lamina passing both teeth and then the short part of the thread again in the V shape lamina passing only the first tooth and that's it.  This needle does not hold a sharp/pointy edge and is perf...
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