Construction Process VII

 Stitching the Back Leather Part

Adding some seams to the upper part of the back leather part is a necessary process as this part comes in contact with the trousers probably and will need more support than only the cement glue.  Starting here is to measure the distance from the edge done on the other seams of the shoe (for me as I have already constructed it).  If this is your first pair of shoe you can have a relative distance from the upper edge of about 3-6mm.  I did measure the previous shoe using the dividers and mark that distance on the newly build back part.

Refer to the analogous video added at the end of this post to see the process.

Use the pricking/marking tool to mark the stitch distance evenly.  I used the wheel which makes the most sparse markings.  You can decide which ones you like the most.  Sparse stitches or dense ones.

From here onwards use the Stitching Pony to clamp this piece of combined leather, prepare your thread (by cutting it to the appropriate length and waxing it) and start stitching.

The stitching technique is the same as the one used on the crepe sole so please refer to its description if needed.  A video is also provided here.  The difference is that there is no need to follow the exertion of the awl as you force enter the left needle.  The hole remains open on the leather and the stitching is normally done.

Adding and Flaring the Eyelets

For this process I had to make lot of tests mostly because I did not hold the appropriate tools and knowledge from the beginning.  I purchased the eyelets without washers from DICTUM.com plus a special flaring punch tool that supposed to do the job.

This is the shiny conical punch shown on the above picture.  I never managed to flare properly the eyelets .  And it was because I've used the wrong eyelets on the wrong leather thickness.  My combined leathers where too thin for the 7mm length of eyelets I desperately tried to flare on.  I have contacted DICTUM.com which they kindly replied with a video showing the proper application of the punch tool and on what kind of leather that applies on to.  I have got permission to post it here so I will provide it at the end.

Yet till they sent back their video I decided to contact another site (big-accessories.com) in order to order new tools and eyelets (with washers at this time).  I ordered from this second site a small tool for flaring the eyelets.  This tool actually is added to your cart when you choose to buy the eyelets.  It comes in two parts.  I bought only the upper part (the one shown on the middle-left part of the above picture) since I do not own a press and since I knew that I could use it using only a hammer.  It worked like a charm!  No splitting on the eyelet's edges whatsoever.  I used though as a back supporting part the anvil (round part shown middle down in the picture) that came with the punch bought from DICTUM.com.

Final verdict is that you need the washers and the appropriate eyelet's length to flare those eyelets properly.  Appropriate length is at least the combined leather thickness (deerskin and lining) plus at least 1.5mm.  For example I have of 3mm leather thickness and I ordered the 4.8mm in height and 5mm inner diameter eyelets.  Working with thicker leather as the video from DICTUM shows you can do it with only the eyelet itself and not using washers.

To the process now, first make the point on the back leather part where the holes will take part.  Because I have already did the first pair of shoe I marked them using this first pair of shoe.  Only one side since folding it in itself reveals where exactly the opposite holes should be opened.

I used again the rotary punching tool setting its cut hole to 4.5mm.  Remember the diameter of the eyelet used is 5mm.

Place the eyelets in the holes leaving the already flared side of the eyelet on the outside i.e. deerskin side of the back leather part.  Place a hard surface like small anvil beneath the leather and now the eyelet's not flared lips should be facing upwards.  Use the special tool provided (the one that should be used with a press) and after placing the washer on its place hammer down with light hammering blows to flare the eyelet. 

Test it by twisting the paired now eyelet-washer to see how firm it stays on place.  If it rotates you might need to give it some more hammering blows.  Do not over do it as it will bend the leather and will look ugly plus it might damage the whole eyelet altogether.  Use several light hammering blows to do the job.

Stamping your Project

I have already described on previous posts how to create a stamp tool for stamping your project.  As a separate project altogether.

Here I will use it to actually stamp my shoes.

First use a small brush and a water container to wet the leather at the point/area where the stamp will be made.  I have chosen to do it on two places.  One on the back of the back leather part (heel area) and on on the top of the vamp.  Same stamp.

Use the brush and work on the spot for quite a while so the water penetrates the leather.  You might leave it wet for a bit before using a towel and swiping out any excess water before using the stamp.

Place accurately the stamp on the leather and with a SINGLE quite hard blow lave your stamp on the wetted leather.

I have not needed to do another pass/blow on the same supposed misplaced stamp or lightly hammered stamp.  But I would not do it any way.  I suspect that the leather will not compensate another blow and that I would likely mess up with my previous attempt.  So please do it right from start.