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Construction Process VIII (Final part)

 Stitching the parts together This is the final part of the construction process series.  This is where all the parts are stitched together.  The lower leather part with the upper parts.  The vamp and the back leather part. For this task start by threading the needle.  This needle is a different kind.  They are called Osborne Braiding Needles at DICTUM ( https://www.dictum.com/en/sewing-tools-materials-bbc/osborne-braiding-needles-708419 ) and threading them is easier than using the saddle-maker's needles.  They hold two "teeth" that I suppose they hold the thread in there.  I am not sure if I did it right but for the whole project it did hold the thread pretty nicely without disengaging the thread at any time. I first passed the thread in the V shape lamina passing both teeth and then the short part of the thread again in the V shape lamina passing only the first tooth and that's it.  This needle does not hold a sharp/pointy edge and is perf...
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General Information

The native Americans footwear

Craft Manual of North American Indian Footwear


This is a project for creating specific type of Native American non decorative yet practical shoes.  It is a combination between the CRAFT MANUAL Northern American Indian Footwear and Ken Diamond’s shoes.

The Blog

This Blog is about making leather moccasins describing most of the process and tools used.  Some videos will also be provided on the way to create them.
This is a kind of tutorial based on my experience on shoe making and information from the book described and the internet.  References found round the web will be linked in this blog site to keep track of all the information as we go along. 
Most of the tools are bought from DICTUM.com Germany.  Leathers are also bought from DICTUM.com.  There are cheaper stores specially in Athens Psiri where lots of leathers and types can be found.  Personally I do not have direct access to Athens stores (since I live and work in Crete) so I tried Dictum's leathers for start.
Kangaroo leather is the best for this project and I will try as soon as I can another version with Kangaroo leather for my moccasins.
Share your thoughts and personal experience with me in this Blog so I can gain experience and apply it on my projects as you can as well through this site.

I respect those people that lived as natives in the North American fields and valleys.  I hope that they manage some day to come again alive as a civilisation not based on whatever funds for doing so but solely on their love for nature and respect to the environment.

Ken Diamond’s moccasins


Ken Diamond moccasin


There are almost no media for the construction process of those shoes.  I had to scrap catch whatever possible from parts of video for a couple on YouTube and one on Vimeo.  The rest I had to improvise based on the book and a small experience on constructing once more the same shoes on an earlier project. Here is Ken on Instagram https://www.instagram.com/p/BQN40DEF4sz/

My version

The result came to be quite satisfying overall as can be seen on the next pictures.  

markman8 moccasin

The design by itself refers to a zero drop sole.  It incorporates a bit the look and feel of a Vevobarefoot (https://www.vivobarefoot.com/eu/) shoe.  Of coarse this is a better design since it is custom and is made just on my foot measurements exactly. 
Note that the laces are for testing purposes only to be discarded later on on the design and place the normal ones (have not bought them yet).  Also note that the eyelets are not fixed yet since the tool for fixing them has not arrived at the time this article is written.

markman8 moccasin

markman8 moccasin


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Location: Crete, Greece

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Construction Process VIII (Final part)

 Stitching the parts together This is the final part of the construction process series.  This is where all the parts are stitched together.  The lower leather part with the upper parts.  The vamp and the back leather part. For this task start by threading the needle.  This needle is a different kind.  They are called Osborne Braiding Needles at DICTUM ( https://www.dictum.com/en/sewing-tools-materials-bbc/osborne-braiding-needles-708419 ) and threading them is easier than using the saddle-maker's needles.  They hold two "teeth" that I suppose they hold the thread in there.  I am not sure if I did it right but for the whole project it did hold the thread pretty nicely without disengaging the thread at any time. I first passed the thread in the V shape lamina passing both teeth and then the short part of the thread again in the V shape lamina passing only the first tooth and that's it.  This needle does not hold a sharp/pointy edge and is perf...
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The Tools

 Tools used I have used simple tools for constructing my moccasins.   From left to right: Wax for waxing the stitching thread.  This is not the ideal as it is hard wax.  A proper one contains fat from animals in combination to bee's wax.  I already ordered a proper wax from DICTUM.com Eyelets 5.6mm in diameter 7.1mm in length.  I might need to order shorter ones though... Waxed thread Rotring trio-pen with three different in diameter graphite noses Stitching needle/s for stitching already prepared leather (opened holes) Rotary leather hole opener (from 2mm up to and including 4.5mm) Dividers and calipers Stitching needles Thread scissors Leather pricking/marking rotary tool with interchangeable wheels Johnas Kallioniemi Puucko custom knife Cutting blade Awl Rotary cutting blade Brushes for cement glue application Copper wire brush for leather roughening Using each tool in the same sequence described above: Wax the threads before stitching.  It str...
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Construction Process IV

 Preparing the lower shoe part After the inner leather sole has dried out from gluing you can move on to the next step which is marking first and then stitching the whole lower leather part with the crepe sole. As mentioned in previous posts this is a difficult part and requires lot of patience and finger ... endurance. The tools you will need for this job are: Dividers Prinking/Marking tool Awl Stitching Pony Saddler's needles Linen Thread (or nylon if you prefer) Thread's wax A pair of thread's scissors On the prinking/Marking tool choose accordingly the wheel.  I have chosen from the 4 wheels provided the one that marks the most apart.  Sparse stitches for me are the best here for two reasons.  One and the main reason is to finish and feel your fingers at the end comfortably and second because there is no need to have dense stitches on a crepe sole. First use the dividers to a logical but not very wide spaced apart opening so to mark round the leather inner sole w...
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