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Construction Process VIII (Final part)

 Stitching the parts together This is the final part of the construction process series.  This is where all the parts are stitched together.  The lower leather part with the upper parts.  The vamp and the back leather part. For this task start by threading the needle.  This needle is a different kind.  They are called Osborne Braiding Needles at DICTUM ( https://www.dictum.com/en/sewing-tools-materials-bbc/osborne-braiding-needles-708419 ) and threading them is easier than using the saddle-maker's needles.  They hold two "teeth" that I suppose they hold the thread in there.  I am not sure if I did it right but for the whole project it did hold the thread pretty nicely without disengaging the thread at any time. I first passed the thread in the V shape lamina passing both teeth and then the short part of the thread again in the V shape lamina passing only the first tooth and that's it.  This needle does not hold a sharp/pointy edge and is perfect for this stitching pur

General Information

The native Americans footwear

Craft Manual of North American Indian Footwear


This is a project for creating specific type of Native American non decorative yet practical shoes.  It is a combination between the CRAFT MANUAL Northern American Indian Footwear and Ken Diamond’s shoes.

The Blog

This Blog is about making leather moccasins describing most of the process and tools used.  Some videos will also be provided on the way to create them.
This is a kind of tutorial based on my experience on shoe making and information from the book described and the internet.  References found round the web will be linked in this blog site to keep track of all the information as we go along. 
Most of the tools are bought from DICTUM.com Germany.  Leathers are also bought from DICTUM.com.  There are cheaper stores specially in Athens Psiri where lots of leathers and types can be found.  Personally I do not have direct access to Athens stores (since I live and work in Crete) so I tried Dictum's leathers for start.
Kangaroo leather is the best for this project and I will try as soon as I can another version with Kangaroo leather for my moccasins.
Share your thoughts and personal experience with me in this Blog so I can gain experience and apply it on my projects as you can as well through this site.

I respect those people that lived as natives in the North American fields and valleys.  I hope that they manage some day to come again alive as a civilisation not based on whatever funds for doing so but solely on their love for nature and respect to the environment.

Ken Diamond’s moccasins


Ken Diamond moccasin


There are almost no media for the construction process of those shoes.  I had to scrap catch whatever possible from parts of video for a couple on YouTube and one on Vimeo.  The rest I had to improvise based on the book and a small experience on constructing once more the same shoes on an earlier project. Here is Ken on Instagram https://www.instagram.com/p/BQN40DEF4sz/

My version

The result came to be quite satisfying overall as can be seen on the next pictures.  

markman8 moccasin

The design by itself refers to a zero drop sole.  It incorporates a bit the look and feel of a Vevobarefoot (https://www.vivobarefoot.com/eu/) shoe.  Of coarse this is a better design since it is custom and is made just on my foot measurements exactly. 
Note that the laces are for testing purposes only to be discarded later on on the design and place the normal ones (have not bought them yet).  Also note that the eyelets are not fixed yet since the tool for fixing them has not arrived at the time this article is written.

markman8 moccasin

markman8 moccasin


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Construction Process VIII (Final part)

 Stitching the parts together This is the final part of the construction process series.  This is where all the parts are stitched together.  The lower leather part with the upper parts.  The vamp and the back leather part. For this task start by threading the needle.  This needle is a different kind.  They are called Osborne Braiding Needles at DICTUM ( https://www.dictum.com/en/sewing-tools-materials-bbc/osborne-braiding-needles-708419 ) and threading them is easier than using the saddle-maker's needles.  They hold two "teeth" that I suppose they hold the thread in there.  I am not sure if I did it right but for the whole project it did hold the thread pretty nicely without disengaging the thread at any time. I first passed the thread in the V shape lamina passing both teeth and then the short part of the thread again in the V shape lamina passing only the first tooth and that's it.  This needle does not hold a sharp/pointy edge and is perfect for this stitching pur

Construction Process V

 Preparing the Rubber Sole As mentioned on my previous post, there has been a mistake in the construction process.  Be aware of that.  The piercing of the lower leather part should have already taken part just after the bonding of the reindeer leather with the sheep lining leather.  Thus using the lower part blueprint with the holes already designed and pierced the lower leather part should have been marked and pierced. At this point there is no going back and this job will be done after the rubber sole has been glued on the crepe sole. Preparing the rubber sole involves scratching its surface with 60grade sandpaper.  Not much.  It is already prepared for gluing by having grooves by design.  I use the sandpaper perpendicular to those already designed grooves. The crepe sole has already been prepared i.e. sanded so there is no need by now to do the same thing.  By the time there are vulnerable stitches on the crepe sole you should not touch any more this surface.  Use only a brush to cl

Construction Process III

  The Inner Leather Sole As the lining of the shoe is made from sheep skin leather I decided to use an inner sole from the same leather that the outer shoe is made.  Deerskin.  More specifically Reindeer skin leather.  This will make the area where I step onto the shoe more durable and will last more I suppose. Making and cutting the inner reindeer leather is done with the same technique as the rest of the leather is done.  Using chalk for marking and the roller cutter for cutting the leather. And bellow fitted on the lower leather part (lining side) as if will be glued and later stitched together with the crepe sole. Ken Diamond here makes three rows of stitches.  Stitches that will last long hold the inner leather sole with the lower part and the crepe sole.  Though he does not use an outer rubber sole for protecting those stitches in some of his shoe designs so I suppose this technique is a must. Stitching as we will see later on those parts together  is the most difficult part as f