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Construction Process VIII (Final part)

 Stitching the parts together This is the final part of the construction process series.  This is where all the parts are stitched together.  The lower leather part with the upper parts.  The vamp and the back leather part. For this task start by threading the needle.  This needle is a different kind.  They are called Osborne Braiding Needles at DICTUM ( https://www.dictum.com/en/sewing-tools-materials-bbc/osborne-braiding-needles-708419 ) and threading them is easier than using the saddle-maker's needles.  They hold two "teeth" that I suppose they hold the thread in there.  I am not sure if I did it right but for the whole project it did hold the thread pretty nicely without disengaging the thread at any time. I first passed the thread in the V shape lamina passing both teeth and then the short part of the thread again in the V shape lamina passing only the first tooth and that's it.  This needle does not hold a sharp/pointy edge and is perfect for this stitching pur
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Leather used

 Most of the tools and all of the leather were bought from DICTUM.com Germany.  A very scecialized store for specific work to be done.  It concerns mostly handcrafted work from leather-craft to instruments making/construction.

I particularly used for this project Reindeer leather and Sheep leather for lining.  Reindeer leather at a thickness of approximately 0.8mm ( https://www.dictum.com/en/leather-ch/reindeer-leather-whole-hide-10-11-sq-ft-831603 ) and Sheep leather of thickness roughly 1.2mm ( https://www.dictum.com/en/leather-ch/rhubarb-tanned-sheep )

Reindeer and Sheep leather hides

Reindeer is a very soft leather and can be processed easily.

From DICTUM's site it reads:

Leather made from the hides of polar reindeer is particularly soft yet highly durable and shapeable at the same time.  This makes it ideal for making shoes, gloves, hats and other articles of clothing as well as for a variety of other leather-working projects. Whole hides, red-brown.

 

Reindeer Leather hide

For the Seep leather it reads respectively:
This leather, deriving from the free-range sheep of the Luneburg heath, is a real rarity.  By raising the sheep in a species-appropriate manner and tanning the hide with a rhabarb-based tincture, this leather is as smooth as silk and exceedingly tear-resistant.  Ideal for clothing, purses, bags, shoe lining and handle wrappings.  Whole hide.

 I bought two whole hides from this sheep leather since I figured out hat only one would not make a single project i.e. a pair of moccasins.  It is quite small in area so keep an eye on the specifications.

This sheep leather is used for lining.  Lining is done throughout this project so all three parts of the shoe, bottom leather part, the vamp and the back part all have lining.  Particularly for the back part I used the second sheep's hide which was a bit thicker for sturdiness.

Both leather parts are glued together and some of them are also stitched at their edge.  Stitching is done for the upper part of the back leather of the shoe at its edge.  No other part is stitched as its edges so this is a risk I took.  Especially for the bottom leather part at its edges.

Sheep Leather hide


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Construction Process VIII (Final part)

 Stitching the parts together This is the final part of the construction process series.  This is where all the parts are stitched together.  The lower leather part with the upper parts.  The vamp and the back leather part. For this task start by threading the needle.  This needle is a different kind.  They are called Osborne Braiding Needles at DICTUM ( https://www.dictum.com/en/sewing-tools-materials-bbc/osborne-braiding-needles-708419 ) and threading them is easier than using the saddle-maker's needles.  They hold two "teeth" that I suppose they hold the thread in there.  I am not sure if I did it right but for the whole project it did hold the thread pretty nicely without disengaging the thread at any time. I first passed the thread in the V shape lamina passing both teeth and then the short part of the thread again in the V shape lamina passing only the first tooth and that's it.  This needle does not hold a sharp/pointy edge and is perfect for this stitching pur
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